It’s nearly February and for me that means that the time to start seeds is rapidly approaching.

In less than three weeks I will be planting my tomatoes at the end of the month during the full moon.Nearly four years ago I purchased some organic Wheatgrass seed, it was a really good heirloom variety so I saved some.  At first I had them stored in the pantry, then they got moved.  As it happens, I forgot all about them.  

Starting Seed is Easy

Upon re-discovering them last week I had little confidence that they were any good.  But since I am still a few weeks away from starting tomato seedlings I simply could not resist getting something growing!

So I soaked the seeds, rinsed them well, folded them up in a damp towel, and then rinsing them a few times a day.  It wasn’t until the start of day four that they showed any sign of life. I know that it has been a few years but it seems that they sprouted much faster before. Perhaps the hull had toughened up over the years? (Or maybe it’s my memory)

I had almost given up hope to tell you the truth.  But they finally sprouted and are going strong.

When starting seeds it helps to remember that they germinate at different times and under different conditions, depending upon the species. 

You could give up on celery seed and plant something else if you are unaware that they have a very slow germination rate.  (Celery can easily take three weeks to finally sprout and if the soil or growing media is not kept moist they wont budge at all).

Some seeds germinate very quickly under cool temperatures and you are probably familiar with some of them if you have ever grown sprouts in your kitchen. 

Starting tomato seeds requires warmth and humidity to germinate.

Other seeds need to be soaked and some need to have their hulls nicked or abraded to encourage germination.  Some seeds even need heat to break their dormancy

It is simply beyond the scope of this blog post to give you a crash course in DIY germination but I hope that it piques your interest into learning or trying something new this year.

Now someone asked,  “What is Wheatgrass and why do you grow it?” When I say wheatgrass, I am referring to organic wheat seeds that are grown to a height of four to six inches and then harvested for juicing.

Wheatgrass juice is used for increasing red cell count, cleansing the liver and other internal organs as well as the gastrointestinal tract. From my own experience I believe that it is one the most beneficial plants to juice to increase your health.

Growing it fresh on a window sill or a counter-top you know it’s free of GMO’s and chemicals.  And of course, Nothing Beats Fresh! The other reason is the cost.  Just a few ounces of frozen wheatgrass will run you close $20.  Another way to think about it is that is about $180 per gallon!

Suddenly buying some certified organic wheatgrass seed and a tray doesn’t seem like that much trouble! If there is only one thing that you choose to do for your health, try wheatgrass. It is a scientific fact that wheatgrass contains more enzymes, minerals and nutrients per serving than any other vegetable or fruit know to man!

Some of this seed will be placed in a tray of my garden soil and when it grows to four and six inches high I will trim the tops and run them through my juicer.
The rest will be allowed to grow to maturity and left to ‘go to seed.’  That way I will be able to save the seed for even more trays.  It is a very good investment from my perspective.

The other night, I took some sprouted seed and being very careful, made a small slit in rock wool and tucked the roots is.  One of the roots
happened to escape, just look all the hairs on the root. 

It wasn’t until I began chatting with some aeroponic growers that I discovered some of the
tricks that they use to increase germination rates.

One method is that after rinsing, the seed is folded in a damp paper towel and then put in a plastic baggie and hung in a dark place. 
When the seed has germinated, it is carefully placed in rock wool and placed into the aeroponic system.   

These folks have raised the bar on starting seed indoors to an art and have nearly a 100% germination rate. It does take more time than poking holes in the dirt, dropping in seed, covering and then watering. But what if you don’t have many seed to waste?

When roots start coming out the sides and bottom of the rock wool the seedling is ready to be transplanted. 
It can be placed into an aeroponic (or hydroponic) system.  Then they are transplanted into a larger container or are prepped for transplanting outside.

It’s not too late to get seed so what are you waiting for? 
Have you made a list of your favorites yet?
Got a sketch of your plot and know what is going to go where?
If you still need seeds let me encourage you to visit

Seed starting is easy if you have the right setup. When we planned our raised bed vegetable garden, we also set up a seed starting station. We went to the local hardware store and purchased a 3 shelf wire rack that’s about 3 1/2′ wide, a fluorescent light housing and a grow light bulb, and some chain to hang the light from the top rack. We hung the light and left enough chain so that I could easily raise or lower the light as the seedlings grew. We put the whole thing outside in the screened in lanai. In Florida, that’s acceptable, but you northerners need to set up your seed station where it’s reasonably warm. Seeds need warmth to germinate, and seedlings don’t tolerate cold well at all. You’ll also need a timer for the light, to ensure that the seedlings get a full 14 hours of light daily.  Or, you can purchase a ready-made light station like this table top one.  You can click on the photos for a link to the Gardener’s Supply site.

I have tried several different seed starting kits, along with making my own little seed pots out of styro cups. Because I like to start about 120 plants every season, I’ve come to love the 2″ pots in this kit.  This system is also  reusable from year to year. It’s a complete system with bottom tray, water wicking mat, and pot holder insert with, of course all the pots. The smallest size works best because three of them fit under my grow light, and each one holds 40 seedlings. (I like to plant several extra plants of each variety in case I lose a few.) All you need to add to this kit is a bag of potting soil. The kit was actually designed to transfer tiny seedlings into; I don’t see the point of starting them in separate containers.  I plant once into the pots, then transplant into the garden 8 weeks later.

After filling the pot with soil, using a pencil tip, poke a little hole in the soil about twice as deep as the size of the seed. Using the same pencil tip, pick up the seeds and drop them into the soil.  I always plant two seeds per hole in case one doesn’t germinate. Once the seedlings are about an inch tall, I cut the smaller one off at the soil level with a pair of scissors. Plant the seeds directly in these little pots, stick a label in them and put them all in their holders under the grow light. Water daily and fertilize with a liquid kelp fertilizer once a week.

It’s a good idea to draw out your garden plan. I make a separate grid plan for every bed. I know what I want to plant and where I want to plant it before I even order my seeds. That way, I don’t get carried away and buy seeds that I won’t have the room to plant. When planning, try to keep the tomatoes and peppers in a different bed than the broccoli and cauliflower. I do a cruciferous bed every year and move it from bed to bed, rotating the crops to avoid disease and other problems that occur when crops aren’t rotated.

I like to start at least 6 of each variety of tomatoes, peppers, and most other veggies. It’s important to label your plants when you sow the seeds. Those little plastic plant markers work well. Make sure you use a Sharpie or other waterproof pen to label them. When it comes to planting, it’s important to know your varieties, as Roma grow only abut 4′ tall, while beefsteaks can grow up to 10′ tall!  When they’re seedlings it’s impossible to tell the variety, so take the time to mark the variety on all your seed pots.

Make your plan, buy your seeds and seed starter kits, and get those seeds planted.

Happy gardening!

Here in the States, the plant owes its name to Joel R. Poinsett, who was a botanist and U.S. Ambassador to Mexico. He is responsible for introducing the plant to the U.S. around 1825. You more often than not see an abundance of poinsettias only during the Christmas season. However, if cared for correctly they can last well beyond spring.

Poinsettias put on a spectacular show of color through their bracts, or modified leaves. The flowers themselves are inconspicuous tiny yellow flowers found in the middle of the bracts. Poinsettias will typically maintain their colorful bracts until early spring. In my experience, the Poinsettia can be a challenge to care for after March or so. However, I’ve learned a few basic techniques to keep them healthy and strong long all year long.

One of the most important factors is your selection at the nursery. Regardless of what type of poinsettia you’re buying, yellowing or pale leaves are a sign that the plant has not been grown under the right conditions. If the leaves or bracts are brittle or falling off, don’t buy the plant.

In selecting the common red poinsettia from your local nursery, the plants with the darkest leaves are generally the healthiest plants. If you’re buying one of the other colors of poinsettia such as pink, the leaves are usually a little lighter. Also, make sure you pick plants with flowers that haven’t opened up yet. If you spot pollen on the small flowers, don’t buy these plants. Plants that have the flowers still closed up will last the longest.

Poinsettia Care

The next thing to remember when you take you plant home from the nursery is that it is cold outside in December! Well, in most parts of the country. Regardless, you should protect you plant from the cold during transportation. Gently wrap the plant in a blanket between the nursery and the car.

Additionally, keep your poinsettia away from the cold once you get it home. Avoid cold drafts and don’t get your poinsettia too close to the window. Keep temperatures in your house around 70 degrees in the day and no lower than 60 at night. Place your plant in a spot where it gets plenty of sunlight, but not intense, direct sun. About six to seven hours a day will do. Filtered light is the best.

How Often to Water Poinsettias

Next, inspect the container for proper drainage. Poinsettias need plenty of water, but if kept too wet, they can suffer from rot or fungus that attack the roots, so punch additional holes in the container or decorative wrapping if necessary. Water frequently, when the soil begins to feel dry to the touch. Make sure the plant does not sit in standing water. If you have a tray at the bottom of the plant, remove the water frequently.

During the time you have your poinsettia, you should be on the lookout for common pests that attack this plant. Whiteflies are a frequent problem. Simply dilute a little Castille soap with water and spray off the flies. Mealy bugs may also cause trouble and can be treated with rubbing alcohol applied with a Q-tip.

After Christmas has past, you can start preparing your poinsettia for the spring and summer months. Although there is no need to fertilize your plant during Christmas, you can begin to fertilize in the early spring with a fertilizer that has a good balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Once to twice a month is recommended. Also, consider using a high quality organic fertilizer or a compost tea.

Around March, pick off the bracts and any dead leaves. It is also a good idea to transplant your poinsettia into a larger container around this time. Next, prune back your plant around June through August. Look for any particularly long branches to prune back. You can consider training your plant into various shapes as well.

As you approach the cooler fall months, you’ll need to begin to isolate you plant in total darkness to encourage re-flowering. The last week of September, move your plants to a part of your house that can remain dark for 14 hours a day. Be very careful not to let any natural or artificial light enter the room. Keep the temperature around 65 degrees and no lower than 60 degrees. Water infrequently when the soil begins to feel dry. By early November, you should start to see new bracts appearing, just in time for Christmas.

1. The Climate

Climate describes the long term weather patterns of an area. The area can be large as a region of a country or as small as a garden. The factors to consider are the:

• Humidity
• Temperature
• Wind
• Sunlight
• Precipitation

A gardener can discover something of the climate in their area when they look on a hardiness zone map. Though these maps don’t give much information about how much sun, wind or rain an area gets, they do tell a potential gardener the average minimum temperature of their area. The Department of Agriculture divides the United States into at least 11 hardiness zones. This lets a gardener know the coldest temperatures a plant can tolerate.

Fortunately, plant catalogs, seed packets and the instructions that come with transplants let the gardener know the hardiness zones where the plant can thrive. Most plants do well in more than one hardiness zone. A tough plant such as ansonia can thrive from hardiness zone 3, which is found in upper Maine, to hardiness zone 10, which is found in southern Florida.

The one caveat is that flowers are far more tender than the plants they grow on. A plant may withstand an unusually late frost, but its flowers may be lost.

2. The Soil

Gardening experts claim that nothing is more important for the growth of plants and flowers as well-prepared soil. As there are several types of climate, there are several types of soil, though the main categories are clay, silt and sand. These soils are determined by the size of their particles.

• Clay particles are less than 1/256 millimeters in diameter.
• Silt has particles that are between 1/16 and 1/256 mm in diameter.
• Particles of sand are between 1/16 and 2 mm in diameter. Sand can be very fine, fine, medium, coarse or very coarse. A person can usually feel the grains of sand when they hold it.

It’s unusual for any one soil sample to be all of one texture, but a gardener can tell if a soil is silty or clayey because it is heavy, hard to turn over and sticks to the shovel. These soils have lots of nutrients. but they’re so compact that air and water can’t get to the plant’s roots. Sandy soil is so light and loose that it can’t hold on to water or nutrients and can’t anchor a plant properly.

The best soil for most plants is loam, which is about 20 percent clay and about 40 percent each of sand and silt.

The pH of the soil is also vitally important. Most plants like their soil just a bit acidic. If a gardener doesn’t know the soil’s pH, they can buy a kit at a gardening center that can test it. One interesting thing to know is that pH levels can influence the colors of flowers. Hydrangeas grown in acidic soil produce blue flowers, while hydrangeas grown in alkaline soil produce pink or red flowers.

3. Sun Exposure

Flowers bloom in conditions of full sun to full shade. Some demand one or the other. Others can blossom in bright sunlight to partial shade. The gardener needs to know what sort of sun exposure the property gets at different times of the year.

4. Is the Plant an Annual or a Perennial?

An annual is a plant that blossoms once and dies, while a perennial blossoms its life, which can be surprisingly long in some species. The attraction of annuals for most gardeners is that they tend to have spectacular flowers. If a gardener wants permanence as well as plants that are robust as well as beautiful, they grow a perennial garden, and supplement it with annuals and bulbs.

5. Design

Designing the garden is a long process but a great deal of fun. Sketching the house and property to scale on a piece of graph paper and depicting which areas get full sun, partial sun or shade, drawing existing plants and outbuildings, noting places that have poor drainage, good views, poor views or no privacy gives the gardener a rough idea of where flowers can be planted to their best advantage. Later, deciding whether a garden is informal or formal and choosing the right plants adds to the pleasure.

After this comes the hard work.

Taking these five things into account well before the first bit of soil is even turned over goes a long way in creating a memorable, beautiful and long-lasting garden.

Flower planting is one of those activities that people indulge in to reward themselves and their neighbors with beauty and perfumed scents in the warmth of a sunny day.  Even the hardest of hearts are softened with colorful displays and the fragrance of lovely blooms.

A flower bed is like a palate for a painter.  Any combinations of colors, shapes and sizes come together in a delightful blend when gathered in a flower garden.  There are few rules, and many guidelines to flower planting, so even the most inexperienced of gardeners can have great success in designing their first flower beds.

There are several types of plants that can be combined when flower planting.  Annuals are flower plants that have a limited life span of only one year.  That being said, some annuals that produce copious seeds at the end of the season have a reseeding habit; meaning that their seeds are scattered through natural sources to nearby areas and could provide new plants the following year.  Biennials are plants that flower one year, and then skip a year before flowering again.  Perennials are plants that will continue to appear every year, flowering each year without the need for replanting. 

Bush plants are also to be considered when flower planting.  These are generally perennials, and grow in mounding form to heights of 2-4 feet tall in flower gardens.  Larger flowering bushes are certainly available, but because of their heights they are usually not included in confined flower beds. 

While there are few rules in flower planting, some do apply and should be considered when designing a flower bed to display each plant to its fullest potential.  Flower beds should be layered to deliver the best effect; tallest plants to the back of the flower bed and then descending in size to the front of the bed.  Ground cover flowering plants can serve as a border. 

Flower planting can be designed by color, as well.  There are numerous plants that bloom in a variety of colors, providing great choices.  Deciding on a color theme can be an easy matter; red, white and blue for patriotic colors, school colors or just favorite color themes are simple to orchestrate.  Or a gardener may wish to allow nature to take its course; flower planting in drifts, or sections of color, is a very popular choice especially in landscapes. 

There are many reasons to consider flower planting.  Beautiful blooms decorating a landscape, bordering a walkway or framing a home front are methods of expressing a desire to be one with nature.  Flower planting that permits that beauty to be viewed and admired by passer-by is a way of sharing nature and your efforts, a true reward for all.