It’s nearly February and for me that means that the time to start seeds is rapidly approaching.

In less than three weeks I will be planting my tomatoes at the end of the month during the full moon.Nearly four years ago I purchased some organic Wheatgrass seed, it was a really good heirloom variety so I saved some.  At first I had them stored in the pantry, then they got moved.  As it happens, I forgot all about them.  

Starting Seed is Easy

Upon re-discovering them last week I had little confidence that they were any good.  But since I am still a few weeks away from starting tomato seedlings I simply could not resist getting something growing!

So I soaked the seeds, rinsed them well, folded them up in a damp towel, and then rinsing them a few times a day.  It wasn’t until the start of day four that they showed any sign of life. I know that it has been a few years but it seems that they sprouted much faster before. Perhaps the hull had toughened up over the years? (Or maybe it’s my memory)

I had almost given up hope to tell you the truth.  But they finally sprouted and are going strong.

When starting seeds it helps to remember that they germinate at different times and under different conditions, depending upon the species. 

You could give up on celery seed and plant something else if you are unaware that they have a very slow germination rate.  (Celery can easily take three weeks to finally sprout and if the soil or growing media is not kept moist they wont budge at all).

Some seeds germinate very quickly under cool temperatures and you are probably familiar with some of them if you have ever grown sprouts in your kitchen. 

Starting tomato seeds requires warmth and humidity to germinate.

Other seeds need to be soaked and some need to have their hulls nicked or abraded to encourage germination.  Some seeds even need heat to break their dormancy

It is simply beyond the scope of this blog post to give you a crash course in DIY germination but I hope that it piques your interest into learning or trying something new this year.

Now someone asked,  “What is Wheatgrass and why do you grow it?” When I say wheatgrass, I am referring to organic wheat seeds that are grown to a height of four to six inches and then harvested for juicing.

Wheatgrass juice is used for increasing red cell count, cleansing the liver and other internal organs as well as the gastrointestinal tract. From my own experience I believe that it is one the most beneficial plants to juice to increase your health.

Growing it fresh on a window sill or a counter-top you know it’s free of GMO’s and chemicals.  And of course, Nothing Beats Fresh! The other reason is the cost.  Just a few ounces of frozen wheatgrass will run you close $20.  Another way to think about it is that is about $180 per gallon!

Suddenly buying some certified organic wheatgrass seed and a tray doesn’t seem like that much trouble! If there is only one thing that you choose to do for your health, try wheatgrass. It is a scientific fact that wheatgrass contains more enzymes, minerals and nutrients per serving than any other vegetable or fruit know to man!

Some of this seed will be placed in a tray of my garden soil and when it grows to four and six inches high I will trim the tops and run them through my juicer.
The rest will be allowed to grow to maturity and left to ‘go to seed.’  That way I will be able to save the seed for even more trays.  It is a very good investment from my perspective.

The other night, I took some sprouted seed and being very careful, made a small slit in rock wool and tucked the roots is.  One of the roots
happened to escape, just look all the hairs on the root. 

It wasn’t until I began chatting with some aeroponic growers that I discovered some of the
tricks that they use to increase germination rates.

One method is that after rinsing, the seed is folded in a damp paper towel and then put in a plastic baggie and hung in a dark place. 
When the seed has germinated, it is carefully placed in rock wool and placed into the aeroponic system.   

These folks have raised the bar on starting seed indoors to an art and have nearly a 100% germination rate. It does take more time than poking holes in the dirt, dropping in seed, covering and then watering. But what if you don’t have many seed to waste?

When roots start coming out the sides and bottom of the rock wool the seedling is ready to be transplanted. 
It can be placed into an aeroponic (or hydroponic) system.  Then they are transplanted into a larger container or are prepped for transplanting outside.

It’s not too late to get seed so what are you waiting for? 
Have you made a list of your favorites yet?
Got a sketch of your plot and know what is going to go where?
If you still need seeds let me encourage you to visit

Seed starting is easy if you have the right setup. When we planned our raised bed vegetable garden, we also set up a seed starting station. We went to the local hardware store and purchased a 3 shelf wire rack that’s about 3 1/2′ wide, a fluorescent light housing and a grow light bulb, and some chain to hang the light from the top rack. We hung the light and left enough chain so that I could easily raise or lower the light as the seedlings grew. We put the whole thing outside in the screened in lanai. In Florida, that’s acceptable, but you northerners need to set up your seed station where it’s reasonably warm. Seeds need warmth to germinate, and seedlings don’t tolerate cold well at all. You’ll also need a timer for the light, to ensure that the seedlings get a full 14 hours of light daily.  Or, you can purchase a ready-made light station like this table top one.  You can click on the photos for a link to the Gardener’s Supply site.

I have tried several different seed starting kits, along with making my own little seed pots out of styro cups. Because I like to start about 120 plants every season, I’ve come to love the 2″ pots in this kit.  This system is also  reusable from year to year. It’s a complete system with bottom tray, water wicking mat, and pot holder insert with, of course all the pots. The smallest size works best because three of them fit under my grow light, and each one holds 40 seedlings. (I like to plant several extra plants of each variety in case I lose a few.) All you need to add to this kit is a bag of potting soil. The kit was actually designed to transfer tiny seedlings into; I don’t see the point of starting them in separate containers.  I plant once into the pots, then transplant into the garden 8 weeks later.

After filling the pot with soil, using a pencil tip, poke a little hole in the soil about twice as deep as the size of the seed. Using the same pencil tip, pick up the seeds and drop them into the soil.  I always plant two seeds per hole in case one doesn’t germinate. Once the seedlings are about an inch tall, I cut the smaller one off at the soil level with a pair of scissors. Plant the seeds directly in these little pots, stick a label in them and put them all in their holders under the grow light. Water daily and fertilize with a liquid kelp fertilizer once a week.

It’s a good idea to draw out your garden plan. I make a separate grid plan for every bed. I know what I want to plant and where I want to plant it before I even order my seeds. That way, I don’t get carried away and buy seeds that I won’t have the room to plant. When planning, try to keep the tomatoes and peppers in a different bed than the broccoli and cauliflower. I do a cruciferous bed every year and move it from bed to bed, rotating the crops to avoid disease and other problems that occur when crops aren’t rotated.

I like to start at least 6 of each variety of tomatoes, peppers, and most other veggies. It’s important to label your plants when you sow the seeds. Those little plastic plant markers work well. Make sure you use a Sharpie or other waterproof pen to label them. When it comes to planting, it’s important to know your varieties, as Roma grow only abut 4′ tall, while beefsteaks can grow up to 10′ tall!  When they’re seedlings it’s impossible to tell the variety, so take the time to mark the variety on all your seed pots.

Make your plan, buy your seeds and seed starter kits, and get those seeds planted.

Happy gardening!

Calamondin oranges are thick, small trees that can grow as high as ten feet. Its fruit is smaller than regular limes. Use scissors or clippers to get the fruit off of the tree. Avoid pulling them as it can promote deterioration.

Calamondin Orange Tree Care

To maintain a healthy, fresh-looking, and fruit-producing Calamondin orange tree , it is critical to remember the basic maintenance guidelines. Take a look at the following orange tree care ideas to ensure the growth of your tree:

1. Plant the citrus tree in a large pot having equal amounts of organic compost, vermiculite, and potting soil. Allow the  orange tree to expand and establish a well-developed root system.
2.  Give adequate amounts of water to your Calamondin orange tree. It is important to keep the soil humid, but not wet. Let the soil’s top layer dry out before you water the plant again. This orange tree benefits from being sprayed regularly with lukewarm rainwater and will help to keeps it healthy and reduce the incidence of black mold and red spider mites.
3. Set the plant at a location where it can receive direct sunlight for many hours on a daily basis. Place it outside for some hours in the spring. Take the tree inside the house as soon as the temperature drops.
4. Use a slow-release citrus formula to fertilize your small orange tree during the growing periods. You can lessen the strength of your fertilizer during the winter.
5. Check your plant for insect infestations and diseases before you bring in inside for the winter season. Treat such problems immediately to avoid long-lasting damages.
6. Prune your citrus tree to get rid of diseased or dead branches. Trim spurs or water sprouts that emerge from the roots or stem. Use plant scissors or clippers to avoid causing damage to the trunk.
7. Keep your tree’s leaves dirt free to prevent scale and mite infections.

Transferring to a Bigger Container

Citrus trees usually grow at a reasonable rate. However, development on the top of a citrus plant simply indicates that the roots are expanding as well. Transfer your tree to a bigger container after every 2 or 3 years to ensure proper root growth. In case the roots of your orange tree stop growing, move it to a new container and use high-quality citrus fertilizer. Water the soil, but don’t keep it wet. The roots will start growing soon.

The citrus plant’s energy may initially be focused on developing new roots, thus you may not observe enough growth on the top of your tree.

Avoid Stressed Trees

Since indoor plants don’t have to deal with environmental pressures, you can choose to transplant them whenever you want. Nevertheless, if you move your plant inside for the winter or outside for the summer, then it is better to avoid transplanting while it gets adjusted to its surroundings. Wait one or two weeks after relocating indoors or out prior to transplanting.

Furthermore, don’t transplant right after fungal diseases or pest problems. Make sure to transplant fresh, healthy, and unstressed Calamondin Orange trees.

Create the Ideal Soil Conditions for Your Calamondin Orange Tree

You can choose to grow miniature citrus trees in wooden, terracotta, or plastic containers. The only thing you should look for is the perfect drainage. You can pick a container with several small-sized drainage holes so that the soil doesn’t move through them.

Considering setting your citrus tree in the open air in the summer? Follow the basic rules of orange tree care and use the right planting medium.

The Calamondin orange tree is a great inclusion to your home garden that can fill the air with the sweet, tangy aroma of oranges.

Maturity

Citrus fruit will hang on the trees for some time after maturity before the fruit deteriorates due to ageing. This allows the home gardener to pick fruit fresh from the citrus tree for a long period especially if they have several varieties ripening at different times of the year. A range of varieties may mean Navel oranges, Imperial mandarins and grapefruit ripen during fall/autumn, Emperor mandarins followed by Darcy mandarins in winter, Ellendale tangors in late winter, Lanes Late Navel oranges in winter-spring and Valencia oranges from spring through to fall/autumn. Limes ripen throughout summer and lemons are available most of the year. Fruit maturity varies in different climates and also depends on the rootstock used.

Most citrus fruit skin begin as a very dark green color and as they reach maturity, turn from green to orange or yellow depending on the variety. It may still be months before the fruit reaches optimum sugar content and distinctive flavor, as sugars increase and acidity decreases. If one you pick one fruit from the tree and it tastes good to you, then usually the fruit will be ripe enough to harvest.

Harvesting

Most citrus fruit can be harvested by twisting and pulling the fruit from the tree. This should not be done with mandarins as the skin around the (stem end) will pull away from the fruit. The fruit will then be open for infection and will deteriorate rapidly. To prevent damage, clip the fruit off, cutting the stem just above the button. Lemons to be stored should also be clipped off in the same manner.

Citrus fruit to be stored, should not be picked when it is wet with rain or dew as this makes the fruit cells swell and fruit is easily bruised or damaged by rubbing. If too much moisture is present then fruit will not keep well. Always take care to handle fruit gently when harvesting.

Kaffir Lime Leaves

Also known as Makrut lime, Leech lime or Thai lime, this lime is a variety grown mainly for its aromatic leaves rather than the fruit. The dark, glossy leaves look like two separate leaves joined together.  Mature fruit are yellow and bumpy and they have many seeds. They are usually harvested when still green. Juice and oils from the fruit are used in shampoos, cleansers and air fresheners.

About Kaffir Lime Trees

These lime trees are small with large sharp thorns. They are similar in size to a Western lime and the fruit is dark green with a bumpy surface. They prefer tropical conditions but can be grown in cold climates if protected from cool winds and given lots of sunshine.

Planting a Kaffir Lime Tree

The Kaffir lime tree grows well in pots. Though it can thrive outdoors, it is more appropriate for indoors. If you live in an extremely cold area, plant these trees in pots so that you can move them inside conveniently. Use a container that allows proper drainage.

Selecting a Location

Before planting your tree, pick a location that receives maximum sunlight. After all, this dwarf citrus tree may not bloom to its absolute potential in a shaded area. These trees can often grow as high as eight or ten feet, thus it is imperative to choose a spot that can accommodate your lime tree easily.

Time to Get Started

Use a spade to make a hole in the soil. This hole should nearly be twice the thickness of the root ball of your tree. Make sure to use well-drained soil to plant your tree. Place high-quality organic material or compost into the hole. Add fertilizer or soil amendments, if required. You can help the roots expand to the right level by arranging the walls of the hole with your spade.

Positioning Your Kaffir Lime Tree

Arrange the root ball of the tree in the hole. Use a spade to fill the hole with the soil. Flatten the surface to remove any possible air pockets. Spread enough soil around the stem such that this area doesn’t collect water.

Watering the Tree

Provide water to your newly-planted tree. Don’t provide too much water as it can cause root damage. If you’ve planted your tree in well-drained soil, make a basin around its perimeter so that water can run efficiently.

Fertilization Techniques

Noticing yellow leaves on your lime tree? This may be an indication of a deficiency of fertilizer. Implementation of proper, effective fertilization strategies can provide you with fully grown, juicy limes.

Spreading Compost Pellets

Once you’ve planted your tree, intersperse sheep or chicken compost pellets near its base. Spread these pellets to the drip line. It is important to leave enough space between the tree’s stem and pellets. When you water the plant, the pellets gradually start releasing nitrogen into the soil.

Applying Granular Fertilizer

Apply a grainy, slow-release fertilizer in spring as well as at the starting and end of the summer season. If your tree is around three years old, spread enough fertilizer around your tree’s base. You can even spread it beyond the drip line. You may have to use large amounts of fertilizer in case your tree is over three years old.

Get a Rake

Gently mix fertilizer with the soil using a rake. Avoid exerting too much force as it can damage thin roots.

Post-Fertilizing Watering

Once you’ve fertilized the Kaffir lime tree, give it almost one inch of water.

Care for Your Kaffir Lime Tree

Though Kaffir lime trees are likely to thrive in almost any kind of conditions, it is important to fulfill certain lime tree care requirements to ensure their optimal development.

Sun, Soil, Water – A Few Prerequisites

Kaffir limes grow well in well-drained, moist soil. If your tree is planted indoors, set it close to a sunny window. Provide them with adequate amounts of water during the growing periods. Since excessive water can damage its roots, it is better to let the soil dry out before you water your plant once again.

Protection From Frost

Kaffir lime trees need to be protected from harsh, cold climates. If your tree is planted outside, bring it inside the house during winter.

Efficient lime tree care can help you get a fully-developed, healthy, and sweet-smelling Kaffir lime tree.

Varieties and strains of lemon trees include the ‘Eureka’, ‘Lisbon’ and ‘Improved Meyer’ lemons.  Lemon trees do not have a dormant phase in the winter and tend to produce flowers throughout the year so are vulnerable to cold weather. The ‘Improved Meyer’ is slightly hardier than true lemon and makes a better choice for home gardeners in a cold climate.

Ideal Lemon Strains and Varieties for Your Location

Australia

The ‘Eureka’ lemon tree is considered the best lemon tree for most areas of Australia. For cooler climate zones of Australia the ‘Improved Meyer lemon’ tree is also popular as it is the most cold-tolerant of all lemons.

United States

Florida

The ‘Improved Meyer’ lemon is the preferred variety for home gardens as the ‘Eureka’ and ‘Lisbon’ varieties are susceptible to citrus scab.

Southern California

The ‘Lisbon’, ‘Eureka’, Variegated pink ‘Eureka’ and the ‘Improved Meyer’ lemons are popular in Southern California. The Lisbon has cold resistance and is very heat tolerant. On the coast, trees can bear some fruit year round. ‘Eureka’ lemon trees bear fruit year round on the coast, fall and winter in the low desert valleys, and winter to spring production in the inland Riverside areas. Variegated Pink – a mutation of ‘Eureka’ that has variegated (green-and-white striped) leaves and immature fruit striped green and cream, mature flesh is light pink plus the tree itself is smaller making it very garden-friendly. ‘Improved Meyer’ lemon trees bear fruit year round.

Texas

Lemon trees growing outside the Lower Rio Grande Valley are at a distinct disadvantage with regard to climate, i.e., winter almost always will be accompanied by one or more freezes. Lemon trees are subtropical to tropical in nature; thus, they may suffer severe damage or even death because of freezing temperatures. However, there are some lemons that have sufficient cold-hardiness to sustain some freezing conditions

If you live in coastal and southern Texas and are willing to put in the effort to provide cold protection for young trees, and sometimes even mature trees, you can successfully produce citrus fruits including lemons. The ‘Improved Meyer’ is popular in Texas due to it having fair cold-hardiness. The ‘Eureka’, ‘Lisbon’ and ‘Ponderosa’ lemon varieties are also grown but are less popular due to their poor cold hardiness.

Generally, lemon trees are smallish in size and produce lemons throughout the year. Lemon fruit is yellow, sour to acidic and oval in shape. Lemon trees do not have a dormant phase in the winter and tend to produce flowers throughout the year. As a result, they are more vulnerable to cold weather than oranges and will shed foliage in the temperature drops below 28F (-2C). The ‘Improved Meyer’ is slightly hardier than true lemon and makes a better choice for home gardeners in a cold climate.

Lemon Tree Strains and Varieties

‘Eureka’ Lemon Tree Strain

The ‘Eureka’ lemon tree originated as a chance seedling in California, USA. The fruit is bright yellow with rougher skin than the Meyer and ‘Lisbon’ varieties. The lemons have high juice content and taste sharply acidic. The ‘Eureka’ is more favored than the ‘Lisbon’ as the trees are free of thorns and have seedless fruit produced throughout most of the year. It grows to approximately 4m tall however it hates vicious cold snaps. It is most suitable for home gardens, particularly where there are children as they will not be scratched from thorns. They start producing fruit at an early age and bear for a long period of time. Young ‘Eureka’ trees may produce so many fruit that they damage the tree, so the grower must remove excess fruit.

‘Lisbon’ Lemon Tree Strain

The ‘Lisbon’ lemon tree is a very vigorous variety that can grow to a large size, with upright branches and dense foliage. It originated in Australia and was thought to have been introduced to Australia by the Portuguese. The fruit is smoother than the ‘Eureka’ with a pronounced nipple at the end and a short neck. Fruit is produced mainly during the winter period with a smaller crop over summer. The main disadvantage of this variety is its extremely sharp thorns although thornless varieties could be available soon. The ‘Lisbon’ is popular in Arizona and California. The tree is more cold-tolerant than others.

‘Meyer’ Lemon Tree Strain

The ‘Meyer’ lemon tree was named after the American plant explorer, Frank Meyer who introduced it from China in 1908. It is considered to be a hybrid between a lemon and a mandarin or an orange. The foliage is similar to lemon but the fruit is more rounded, with light orange-yellow skin. The ‘Meyer’ is excellent to grow in pots as it tends to be smaller growing than other lemons.

The ‘Meyer’ lemon tree is a thornless tree that produces fruit throughout the year that are mildly acidic and can be eaten without the sour taste of most lemons. The grated skin (zest) is of inferior quality to other lemons. The single crop ripens early but holds well on the tree for several months. It is very frost hardy and tolerant of cold conditions. Only purchase ‘Improved Meyer’, as the original ‘Meyer’ harbors Tristeza virus.

Citrus

Did you know that the most fashionable citrus tree at the moment is the lime tree? Demand for varieties like Tahitian and Kaffir has built up significantly over the last few years, probably because they are so popular in Asian cooking. Limes are an excellent source of Vitamin C and provide a great substitute for lemons. They can be used for seafood dishes, chicken, meats, drinks, desserts, cakes, biscuits and marmalade.

Lime trees are frost sensitive, small and leafy, and grow to 10 feet (3 meters) with smallish, generally round yellow to green fruit at maturity. Limes have the highest requirement of all citrus varieties for heat. Tropical and subtropical areas suit them best however you can grow lime trees in cooler climates as they can tolerate light frost. Ensure they have a sheltered position, fully sunlit throughout the day and protected from cool winds.

There are distinct varieties of lime trees which are grown extensively. These are the small-fruited acid or sour limes (Citrus aurantifolia) and the large-fruited acid limes (Citrus Latifolia). Other limes are the Indian or Palestine Sweet lime (Citrus limettioides), the Rangpur lime (Citrus limonia) and the Kaffir lime.

The Tahitian lime is the best lime to grow in a container as the West Indian lime tree has vicious thorns and needs much higher temperatures than the Tahitian lime.

Tahitian or Persian lime (Citrus aurantifolia) Strain

This variety is the best lime for a cool climate. It has very few thorns and produces very juicy fruit all year round. The plants grow to around 3x3m (10×10′) tall, and they do well in the garden or in pots. The seedless fruit is small and green when ripe, although it can be left on the tree until it turns yellow. Tahitian limes are easy to grow.

West Indian or Mexican or Key lime (Citrus aurantifolia) Strain

This lime tree is has sharp thorns and grows to 6-13 feet (3-4m) high if grafted to Trifoliate orange (Poncirus trifoliate) rootstock, but taller when grafted to other rootstocks such as Citronelle. This variety prefers tropical to semi-tropical climates and is frost sensitive.

The fruit are small, round to oval, with a small nipple, many small seeds and a strong flavor. The skin is slightly rough and pale green at first, turning light lemon in color at maturity. Fruit are produced year round and when mature, they fall from the tree and are picked up from the ground for use.

Kaffir or Makrut lime (Citrus hystrix) Strain

This lime tree is a variety grown mainly for its aromatic leaves rather than the fruit. Kaffir limes will reach 1.5 meters (5′) tall, but because the leaves are constantly being picked for cooking, the trees usually remain small in size. They have large sharp thorns and also grow well in containers. They prefer tropical conditions but can be grown in cold climates if protected from cool winds and given plenty of sunshine.

The dark, glossy leaves of the Kaffir look like two separate leaves joined together. They are an essential ingredient of many Thai recipes, including curries, fish dishes and soups. The flesh of the fruit is usually thrown away, but the rind and zest is sometimes used.

Best climate to grow Lime Trees/Lemon Trees

Lime trees grow well in the warmer climates. They also grow in cooler climates, but protect from frost when young.

Lime Tree Care

A position in full sun is best for lime trees. Keep trees well watered when the fruit is forming in spring and early summer. Water well before and after fertilizing. Keep the area beneath your trees free of grass and weeds. Mulch with compost or other organic material, but make sure that the mulch does not touch the trunk of the tree

Listen to any radio gardening talk-back program particularly in the U.S. and Australia, at any time of the year, and you will undoubtedly hear a question about a lemon tree, orange tree, lime tree, mandarin tree, grapefruit tree or any other variety of citrus tree. Citrus trees, especially lemon trees, have become a national obsession in Australia and the U.S.  information on how to successfully grow and care for them is always welcome.

Taking care of citrus trees involves staking, mulching, fertilizing, watering, pruning and identifying and fixing pest and disease problems as follows:

Staking Lemon, Lime and Citrus Trees

In windy exposed sites, some staking will be needed to stop your citrus tree moving excessively. Insert two stakes, one each side about 8 inches (20 cm) from the trunk. Place a flat band of material (or old hosiery) around the stake and stakes in a figure 8. This will allow some flexibility while the tree root system establishes during the first 2 to 3 years.

Mulching Lemon, Lime and Citrus Trees

Mulching the soil can add nutrients, deter weeds, conserve moisture, help to spread and retain water and protect the roots of your lemon tree.

Mulch from a couple inches beyond the canopy to a few inches from the trunk. Do not mulch right up to the trunk—give it a little room to breathe! Cover the area under the canopy with 3 to 4 inches (8 to 10 cm) of mulch. Under normal circumstances you should need to re-mulch every six months, but if your washes or blows away in stormy weather, go ahead and re-mulch right away. Do not use pine bark nuggets as they can attract ants, and do not use any inorganic material for mulch.

Fertilizing Lemon, Lime and Citrus Trees

Citrus trees need high-quality compost plus a number of trace elements to meet their specific nutritional needs. Citrus trees in containers are susceptible to malnutrition even when planted in good compost, as every time you water some of the nutrients leak out, and they can only be replaced by you. You can recognize plants with poor nutrition by stunted growth, yellow leaves, and low or no fruit production. Happily, nutritional deficiencies can be easily addressed with soil amendments.

Watering Lemon/Lime and Citrus

Careful watering is of the utmost importance when it comes to lemon trees. Citrus trees need lots of water. They need a minimum of 3 to 4 cm (1 – 1.5 inches) per week from spring until fall/autumn. The way to see whether you’re watering correctly is simply to use a cup, turn on a sprinkler and see how long it takes to get 3 to 4 cm of water in the cup.

Pruning Lemon/Lime and Citrus

Lemon trees and other citrus trees don’t need as much pruning as other fruit trees do. While your trees are first getting established, limit pruning to just removing crossing or damaged branches. Because citrus fruits are so heavy, you’ll need to encourage strong branches that can hold them. In the spring, the main branches can be cut back to an outward-facing bud if you wish.

Pests and Diseases

One of the difficulties of growing citrus trees is that there are many insect or animal pests, various diseases affecting the plant, stem, leaves or fruit, and disorders such as split fruit skins and nutritional deficiencies shown when a mineral deficiency is present in the soil.

You will find full details about caring for your lemon trees, orange trees, lime trees, grapefruit trees, mandarin trees and other citrus trees and great advice and photos on recognizing and correcting nutrient deficiencies in Grow Citrus: The Insiders Secrets to Growing Great Citrus

So What is Organic Food?

The first thing to know about organic food is to understand how it is different from non-organic food. Why has organic food gained so much attention in recent years? The answer is simple. As the farming industry changes and shifts into using more artificial pesticides and turns to science to produce higher crop yields through artificial and industrial farming techniques, we have had to begin distinguishing between the foods that are harvested using these techniques and the foods that are not.

In the past decade, there has also been a rise in genetically modified foods (GMO’s). These are the same foods we are familiar with, but have been modified genetically in laboratories so that they will either be resistant to poisons and pesticides, repel insects that naturally feed on them in the natural ecosystem, or otherwise behave differently than they would in nature.

These farming practices are relatively recent in human history, and have already been shown to have significant impacts on human health, and the health of the ecosystem we rely on for our food and farming. This is why it is so important to understand the differences between organic and non-organic food sources, and their impacts

Nutritional Benefits

As there is an increasing amount of non-organic food on the market, it has become necessary to distinguish from organic foods to understand the impacts of these new farming and food harvesting techniques. As there are more and more non-organic foods on the market, it is now possible to begin observing the nutritional differences between organic and non-organic foods.

What studies are now beginning to show is staggering: organic foods not only have better flavour, but they are also higher in nutrients and vitamins. There are many reasons for this. Pesticide use decreases flavour, and many of the non-organic foods available on the market are also harvested before they are ripe and shipped across long distances. As a result, they are not mature and have less flavour and nutrients.

Environmental Benefits

Organic foods are not only about producing healthy foods, but they are also about doing this is harmony with the environment. Studies now show that organic farming causes less pollution by shipping more foods locally, and contributes less to the effects of dead zones in our oceans, which are caused by widespread use of pesticides that leach into the water supply and drain into rivers and oceans.

The impact of pesticide farming in the environment is huge when it comes to fruits and vegetables, but can also apply to meats and animal farming. Organically farmed foods do not rely on the use of antibiotics for animals and treat disease naturally, and also highlight the importance of treating animals with dignity. Organic meats are therefore not only more flavourful, but also more healthy for human consumption, and do not leach large amounts of antibiotics into our water supply through manure and other animal waste.

Health Benefits

Widespread intake of pesticides present in farming and non-organic foods is also toxic to humans, and can affect our health. There are studies linking non-organic foods, pesticide use and GMO’s with health issues such as autism, birth defects and reproductive problems in humans, among the most prominent health concerns.
There are so many reasons to value the importance of organic foods, so visit your favorite organic grocery store today!

There are many health and nutritional benefits to consuming organic foods on a regular basis rather than conventional or non-organic foods. Beyond the added bonus of improved flavour and health benefits, increased nutrients and absence of poisons such as pesticides or use of questionable practices such as genetically modified organisms (GMO’s) in our food supply, there are many reasons to go for organic food if you’re generally interested in reducing your ecologically footprint, or are interested in farming practices that are beneficial to the environment rather than depleting to the ecosystem.

Pesticide Use

Conventional farming relies heavily on the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, which can destabilize the ecosystem. When we buy non-organic foods, we encourage the production of these types of foods and the farming practices that make them possible. The danger with widespread pesticide use is not only that they are harmful for humans, but that they are then present in the environment and can be upsetting to the flora and fauna, while also affecting the ecosystem as a whole

Pesticides sprayed into farm land enter the water supply, and can trickle down into the rivers and oceans, affecting the animals along the way. This is a huge contributing factor to the dead zones in the ocean, where animals and plants die on a large scale due to the presence of these toxic chemicals in their environment.

Fortunately, it appears that these effects can be reversed over time once the pesticide use ceases, but this will only take place once we turn to organic farming and reduce the amount of these toxic chemicals in the environment. Buying organic foods helps encourage these more natural farming practices to reverse this toxic trend.

Local Organic Farming

Most organic foods are produced and consumed locally. This can have a huge impact on reducing your ecological footprint, simply by affecting the amount of transportation involved in getting the foods from the farm to your dinner plate. Locally grown foods are not only delicious, but by supporting local organic farmers you are helping reduce the overall trend of transporting under-ripened foods for miles and miles to be consumed once they have ripened outside of their natural environment.

The amount of pollution involved in transporting foods is staggering and even a small contribution to reducing this can have a huge impact on reducing green house gases, and preventing further depletion to the ozone layer of the earth, which protects our environment from harmful ultraviolet rays.

Reduce The Use of Water

It takes 10 times more water to produce non-organic foods as it does to produce crops organically. This is because of the need for irrigation and because organic farming works with the ecosystem and feeds the soil so that it retains more water. Organic farming practices work with the environment and reproducing the environment’s natural diverse ecosystem and produces stronger soils that remove the need for excessive watering. By choosing organic foods, you are also choosing to protect the use of clear water.

Reduce The Use of Grain

If you are meat-eater, choosing organic meats not only reduces the amount of water required to produce the meat source, but also reduces the amount of grain required to feed the animals. With organic farming, animals can feed more naturally off the environment and are also not over-fed to compensate for unhealthy farming techniques and the use of antibiotics which leach into the ecosystem and become integrated into the human diet.
Biodiversity

Finally, organic farming works with a more diverse and naturally occurring environment for crops to grow. Rather than having entire plantation of a single crop and using harsh chemicals to fend off insects, organic farming works with these conditions to produce healthy and fresh crops in a more biodiverse environment, which protects the environment from plantation disease and all the chemicals that are used to artificially remove them.

Even though further research needs to be done to gain a better understanding of the benefits of organic food, there is still much valuable information to share with you.

Before we discuss the actual health benefits of eating whole food, lets take a look at the advantages it has over non-organic food.

It’s a fact that this food is highly nutritious and contains higher levels of vitamins and minerals. Vitamin C and minerals like magnesium, calcium and iron are just some of the nutrients organic food contains higher amounts of.

Whole foods also contain higher amounts of antioxidants, which help reduce the risk of developing cancers.

You may be surprised to know, but the vegetables we eat today are nowhere near as nutritious as they were 50 or even 15 years ago. Farmers tend to take shortcuts when growing food, and the fastest way is generally not the best way to do something. This trend is expected to continue, so if eating highly nutritious food is important to you, looking into organic foods is something worth considering.

If you were wondering why organic food hasn’t exactly taken the world by storm, it’s mainly due to the extra cost associated with organic growing. Demand is greater than supply and as a result, you can expect to pay about 20% extra for this kind of food..

Numerous studies have been conducted to find out the benefits whole foods can provide us humans. Many results are still fairly inconclusive however there have been many reported cases of benefits when animals are fed organic food.

The reason for the vagueness in health benefits is due to many reasons such as: incorrect method of testing and the lengthy time it takes to determine results of this nature. However several studies have shown benefits such as:

• Decline in colds and other conditions
• Improves dental health
• Improves flow of your overall system
• Greater chance of sprains and fractures
• Reduces chance of injury
• Better over health

As mentioned, the subject of organic food vs non organic food is very iffy and many researches believe that this food provides little to no health benefits.

Thinking about it logically, surely food that has been grown as it was intended to and that contains no added toxic chemicals has to be considerably healthier for us.

Whether the extra cost associated with organic food is worth the money is entirely up to the person. There is insufficient evidence to say something like “eating whole foods will reduce the likelihood of getting heart disease”.

I thought it was a great question. This was one I had struggled with trying to make ends meet on a teacher’s salary as a stay-at-home mom. What was the difference between conventional and organic? Is it enough of a difference to justify the extra expense? I wanted to do what was best for my family, but wasn’t sure what that was at the time.

A Brief History of Organic

Up until the middle part of the last century, all food was organic. Chemical agriculture was just really catching on then, which changed the way farming was managed in this country. Up until that time, careful management of the soil and smaller crops were the norm, along with crop rotation or growing certain plants together to support the growth of the others. It was also common for each family to have their own garden. When chemical fertilizers made their way onto the scene, farmers could grow much more food with less effort. They could kill the pests that would have devastated their crops in the past. It seemed like a great plan.

But with the addition of the fertilizers, pesticides, and less attention to the quality of the soil, the net result was food that was no longer as nutrient dense, and had the added disadvantage of toxic chemicals. Micronutrients that used to abound in the soil were no longer present, which resulted in food that didn’t taste as good. Ask anyone who is older than about 50 if produce tastes different than they remember it tasting when they were young. Most likely, the answer will be yes. Nutrients taste good. That apple with no taste has very little nutrition.

During the 1980’s, the word organic began popping up in health food stores, but there was no standard for what could be called organic and what couldn’t. During the 1990’s, the first standards for organic foods were set. In 2007, more legislation was passed to more clearly define what was acceptable for organically grown foods and what wasn’t. In the meantime, organic foods have become big business and many companies that were formally conventional have now started organic lines, like Dole. The advantage was that organic foods were now readily available at most grocery stores. As organic became more commercially available, prices started to go down, but the intention behind the movement shifted into making money, rather than doing what was ultimately best for people and the environment. Consumer confidence in the organic label dropped as incidents formally known to only affect conventional crops started happening with the organic crops.

As a side note, some farmers are now producing what is called biodynamic produce. These crops are considered even better than organic and special attention is paid to the soil for optimal health of the plants and high nutrient content. Like organic, it also must be free from synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. Organic is better than conventional, but biodynamic is even better than organic.

Why is organic better than conventional?

Chemicals used to protect food from pests are harmful to young children. Young children’s bodies have difficulty removing the chemicals ingested through food and children tend to eat more produce per pound of body weight than adults. However, the “safety” criteria often sited is based upon adults, not children. By eating several of the most contaminated produce in a day, your children are exposed to an average of 15 pesticides per day. You can reduce that by around 90% by simply eating more of the least contaminated foods. Organic food, by definition, must be free of synthetic chemicals. More attention must be paid to the soil in order for organic foods to grow, so they also tend to be more nutrient dense.

My favorite story about organics is taken from a zoo. They were feeding the monkeys a mix of organic and conventional bananas. The zookeepers discovered that the monkeys always peeled the conventional bananas, but ate the organic bananas whole, peel and all, which is normal for them. Even the animals know the difference!

Why are pesticides so bad? Don’t they just wash off?

Pesticide ingestion has been found to contribute to the following health problems, according to numerous animal and human studies:

• Cancer
• Fertility problems
• Brain tumors
• Childhood leukemia
• Non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma
• Hormone or endocrine system problems
• Nervous system damage

Read that last one again: Nervous system damage. Most pesticides are designed to attack the nervous systems of pests! I couldn’t understand how anything that attacks the nervous system could ever be considered “safe” for anyone, let alone children.

Keep in mind that pesticides are not just on the outside of fruits and vegetables, as is commonly thought, but are taken up inside the produce through the soil. Even when you wash the outside or peel the skin off, though this will lower the pesticide exposure, it will not remove all pesticides. However, by removing the skin, you are also losing valuable nutrients found in the peels and outside layer of the fruit or vegetable.

Collect all the information you can to gain understanding of what and when things should be done.  Common sense goes a long ways, add that with your personal observations, and you have all you need to get a good start the best usage of your time to gain the most results.

Evaluate and make your plan.

Step back and look closely at how the landscape is performing, both functionally as well as aesthetically.  Ask these questions: What goals do I have?  Do I want a dual purpose garden? Will it provide mental respite as well as healthy crops?  What features lend themselves to a focal point (dominant feature) or pleasant walkway for planning around?  How do pole beans or upright sweet corn set the stage?  How do the oregano and mint textures (leaf and stem) harmonize with the colors, silhouettes and shapes of their companion plants?  What type of lighting and shadows from the sun at various stages of the day as well as the evening moon’s rays do you see to add to the excitement of the view?  These are just a few considerations that may bring greater enjoyment to that bell pepper’s flavor or the pie grandma made from your rhubarb, or mint in your glass of ice tea, or maybe a fruit salad with hand-picked blueberries and strawberries.

Mark, stake, label, or flag to indicate the exact locations of seeds, vining plants, watering and fertilizing sites are.  As your squash vines start sprawling over this will help you not get lost as to where the hose end went.

Planting your future food:

If you started your tomato plants indoors or purchased them, you will want to transplant them one inch or deeper (to the first set of leaves).  Put stakes or cages up now so you don’t have to hassle with it later and risking damage to your plant.

Sweet potatoes are good to plant this month in the Midwest.  Replace cold season plants with warm season varieties such as beans, egg-plant, and pepper.  Work up the space, add some organic matter then plant after last harvest of your cold season vegetables.  Keep proper spacing for sweet or pop corn to ensure proper cross –pollination and room for mature growth.

Care towards your good harvest

Shad from direct sunlight allows for a longer harvest time.  Cool season leafy vegetables like lettuce, spinach and others will benefit from a shade cloth or fabric with the density of window screen over them.

After you cut and enjoy asparagus spears (not beyond stalks reaching pencil sized), allow the plant to grow and fern out (opening of leaves).  Thin out and remove plant seedlings of beans, anise, and peas from any situation to avoid overcrowding.  Select, if possible, the weakest plants to discard.   New growth, tie up on vines as they need to avoid breaking stems and damage.

Watering good yet do so responsibly:

Keep as much moisture off the plant leaves, therefore minimize overhead watering.  To continue watering from over head increases the chance of disease.  If you must water from overhead, do it as early in the morning as you can so the leaves may dry during the day.

Food for the food- Fertilizing

Grapes need a balance of (12-12-12 or similar) fertilizer.  One quarter cup around each vine installed earlier this year.  Apply fertilizer to older vies as the bulbs swell.  Use one cup for two-year-old vines.  One to One-one half cups for three-year-old vines and one to two cups of plant food for each year of growth on older vines.

Tomatoes need tomato fertilizer with an analysis 6-24-24 or similar product.

The first number is low so minimize adding nitrogen.  Nitrogen encourages foliage and minimized fruit formation.

For your apple trees you will need to fertilize the ones which have been in place one year or longer.  Administer one pound of 12-12-12 each year.

Pruning:

To save the energy of the rhubarb plant, cut off flower and seed stalks.  Flowers from any squash and any fruits at the time of installation pinch off (remove). The plant will spend its energy trying to develop and keep fruit growing but it needs time to acclimate and establish in the garden.

Disease:

Watch for asparagus beetles and striped and spotted cucumber beetles.  These pests chew and transmit diseases in specific plants.  Apple trees signs to watch for are codling moths; the caterpillars are leaf eaters.

Caterpillars start showing up on many crops this month, especially cabbages and broccoli.  Inspect leaves for chewing, remove or apply a safe chemical control directly on the caterpillar.  You could use Bacillus (Bt) biological spray per package directions.

Several insects that disrupt fruiting will visit your grapes; control them with insecticidal soap to lessen the impact.

Grape foliage with blackened or gray film on it will need to be thinned out so air movement can be increased through the plant.  Check the base of grapevines after a severe winter for unusual looking growth.  Cut vines to ground. Retrain the new growth onto the arbor or trellis.  If the leaves appear pale or stunted, the nutrient level may be unbalanced or inadequate.  Take a soil sample to your local garden center if you are unsure.

Blueberry bushes with a yellowing discoloration on the leaves are a sign of iron deficiency or unavailable nutrients.  Iron sulfate at the label rate of application can be used to begin the recovery process.  This may take a few seasons.

Helpful Hints

An insect identification guide with color pictures can greatly help identify unknown infestation problems.  You can purchase these at local garden centers or nurseries.